Savoring San Miguel

History, wine, and tacos of a timeless town of the Central Coast

By Nicole Leonetti

I have spent plenty of time in California’s Central Coast on my wine tasting adventures but have foolishly passed by San Miguel. Thankfully, I decided to stop for a closer look. Tucked away in the northern reaches of San Luis Obispo County, this small unincorporated town has deep roots dating back to its founding in 1797, when the Spanish established Mission San Miguel Arcángel. I discovered a place full of history, charm, and a few surprises that made me wonder why I hadn’t visited sooner.

History and Heritage

Many visitors make the trip to San Miguel to see the historic Mission San Miguel Arcángel. Upon exiting Highway 101, the mission’s majestic bell tower rings out against the picturesque countryside.

Founded by the Franciscan order, the mission has a long and storied past. The original chapel burned down in 1807, and the current church, still an active parish, completed construction in 1821. Esteban Munrás, a Spanish-born Californio artist, painted the original, vibrantly colored frescoes, giving the mission one of its most iconic features.

Mission San Miguel Arcángel, the 16th mission established in the chain of 21 California missions, has been recognized as a National Historic Landmark. It sits alongside El Camino Real, the historic route that connected Spanish missions, presidios, and pueblos throughout California. Parts of this road eventually became what we now know as U.S. Route 101.

Visitors can explore the mission museum through a self-guided tour that highlights life in the California missions during the late 1700s and early 1800s.

San Miguel locals proudly revel in the mission’s history. Raynette Gregory shared, “The Mission has the original frescoes from over 200 years ago. No other California mission has this. You really get a sense of the history walking the halls.”

The historic Rios-Caledonia Adobe, another treasured California Historical Landmark, also sits in San Miguel. Built in 1835 by indigenous Salinan laborers under the supervision of Petronilo Ríos, this adobe structure has served many purposes over the years, including a residence, inn, stagecoach stop, and even a gift shop. In 1968, the Friends of the Adobes Organization formed to preserve and restore the adobe. Today, visitors will find a vast collection of photographs and artifacts that offer a glimpse into the adobe’s past and the history of the surrounding area.

We had the pleasure of meeting Steve Kalar, a sixth-generation San Miguel local and the museum’s curator. Steve, himself a talented artist who studied fine art and fresco restoration in Florence, shared his passion for the history and art that shines forth in every corner of the museum. Many of the artifacts on display, donated by local San Miguel families, added a personal touch to the museum’s collection. A mammoth tusk, one of six discovered in San Miguel, especially caught my attention.

Over at the Work Family Ranch, a different kind of regional history is highlighted. Established in 1892, the ranch was founded by John Work and his wife. They would become one of San Miguel’s early homesteading families. Today, the family still lives and works on the 12,000-acre ranch, and visitors can experience ranch life through horseback rides and farm stays. The ranch also partners with the Mighty Oaks Foundation to provide veterans and first responders with a monthly visit to ride and reconnect. The program supports those overcoming post-traumatic stress and helps them reintegrate into civilian life.

Just three miles north of Mission San Miguel Arcángel, Camp Roberts played a key role in transforming San Miguel into a booming town during the 1940s. Today, the Camp Roberts Historical Museum stands as a proud tribute to that history, celebrating its military roots and preserving the legacy of one of California’s most important training centers.

Open to the public every Thursday and Saturday with free admission, the exhibits offer a deep dive into the history of Camp Roberts — particularly its role as a major training base during World War II. Its displays detail everyday life on the base (Army bakers made more than 6,000 loaves of bread here each morning!), as well as more general information on the California National Guard, the Korean War, and other military milestones, with an impressive collection of vehicles, uniforms, and equipment. The opportunity to climb inside tanks, try on military uniforms, and pose for photos makes it a hit with kids and families alike.

Next up is San Miguel Olive Farm. Owned by Richard and Myrna Meisler, it began as a dream that has grown, quite literally, into a grove of more than 2,000 olive trees. Visitors experience the farm through free tours and tastings, where they sample the award-winning olive oil as well as imported Italian vinegars. As Richard puts it, after a tour, “You’ll never look at olive oil the same.”

Richard, a former drummer and bandleader, moved to the area 26 years ago with no background in farming. But, with a passion for learning and a hands-on approach, he slowly transformed the land. Planted in stages with years of care, the farm now practices organic, dry farming. The olive trees, mature and hardy, thrive naturally in the region’s sun-soaked climate. The olives, harvested by hand, produce a high-polyphenol olive oil, known for its pungent flavor, peppery finish, and high antioxidant content has become their signature.

Nestled just a mile and a half off Highway 101, Hambly Farms provides travelers a peaceful — and fragrant — retreat. Owners Gina and Milton Hambly built the farm from the ground up in 2017 with love, patience, and a whole lot of lavender. Today, Hambly Farms grows nine varieties of lavender, using regenerative farming practices to care for the land and produce high-quality, earth-friendly products. Open seasonally through Labor Day, the farm offers a variety of ways for visitors to immerse themselves in lavender: shop the on-site farm store, stroll through the fields during a U-pick experience, or join a guided farm tour. The farm also hosts a variety of activities and events, such as “Evenings on the Farm,” where guests can harvest a bouquet at sunset and bring a picnic to enjoy in the golden light. Hambly Farms also offers workshops, including essential oil distillation demos, intro to beekeeping classes, and even full moon photography sessions.

By now I’m starting to see a pattern in the San Miguel farmers — they’re passionate about growing things sustainably. I discovered yet another farm in this line, California Lavender Honey Farm, which specializes in honey, lavender, and fresh produce. “Our health heavily depends on what we eat,” owner Tatiana Sorokina says. “Starting a honey and produce farm felt like a natural step.” With that vision, they set out in 2021 to grow delicious, nutrient-rich food using sustainable, organic, and regenerative practices. They’ve since added lavender — a powerful wellness herb, and a favorite of the Sorokinas’ bees.

Visitors to California Lavender Honey Farm can check out the one-of-a-kind Bee Museum, and learn about gardening, bees and beekeeping, sustainability, and wellness. Throughout the year, the farm also hosts events like the “Creativi-Tea,” which pairs arts and crafts — like lavender wreath making — with lavender tea and light snacks. Their “Tranquili-Tea” series, held monthly from May to October, features yoga and sound baths paired with soothing lavender tea, creating the perfect environment for relaxation and mindfulness. Tea tasting experiences and custom tours are available year-round by appointment, and a selection of products made right on the farm, including honey, lavender tea, candles, and skincare products, can be purchased at the farm’s gift shop — along with their incredible produce, lavender, and honey!

Stop and Sip

In addition to its deep history, San Miguel boasts an ideal terroir for growing excellent wine grapes. Home to the Pleasant Valley Wine Trail, San Miguel offers a picture-perfect place to drive through postcard-worthy rolling hills as you sample some fabulous wines.

My first stop on the trail, Four Sisters Ranch Winery, is a family-owned winery in San Miguel. Founded by Serena Friedman and her husband, Michael Drucker, the winery’s name honors their four daughters. They specialize in small-batch, artisan wines, which they serve in their hacienda-style tasting room. Here, you’ll find stunning 360-degree views of the surrounding hills and vineyards, which you can take in from their spacious patio. Walk-ins are welcome and guests enjoy patio seating, picnic areas, and snacks available for purchase. Dog-friendly and kid-friendly, this winery caters to fun family outings.

Their lineup includes everything from a flagship Cabernet Sauvignon to unique pours like Orange Muscat, Port-style wines, and even sparkling wine. One of my personal favorites, the 2019 Michael’s Way Red Blend, combines Bordeaux and Rhône varietals. “There are no rules here. We play with our wines and their blends … We’re not Napa — we don’t take ourselves too seriously,” Serena said. The winery also hosts a variety of events, complete with live music and food, courtesy of their outdoor barbecue and pizza oven.

Graveyard Vineyards, known for its laid-back atmosphere, also stands out along the wine trail. Paula and Rob Campbell-Taylor bought the property in 2003, drawn by the stunning views. Originally planning to only grow and sell grapes, the couple soon decided to make their own wine. With Rob’s engineering background and Paula’s career in sales and marketing, they dove in headfirst starting with just 150 cases, sold from their front porch. In 2011, they built their winery located next to a catch-and-release pond, which they stocked with bass and catfish used to host kid-friendly fishing contests. Guests are encouraged to bring kids, dogs, and picnics. Our dog, Frankie, enjoyed greeting new friends that we met at the winery.

With walk-ins welcome, Graveyard hosts live music every Saturday and has a cozy fireplace inside the tasting room. Their lineup of approachable wines includes sparkling, whites, rosé, and plenty of powerful reds. Their award-winning Dark Phantom, a standout for me, blends Syrah and Petite Sirah. They even offer a Chocolate Port-style wine.

This August they will celebrate their 20th anniversary with a party featuring food and wine pairings from around the world. They also host seasonal events like their “Killer” Halloween party and winemaker dinners. Paint & Sip nights encourage guests to relax, drink wine, and unleash their inner artists.

Another magical San Miguel winery, Mystic Hills Vineyards pours forth the passion of Joel and Judy Cox. Joel, an Oscar-winning film editor known for his decades-long collaboration with Clint Eastwood, still works in the film industry while overseeing the vineyard with Judy and their family. Joel’s love of wine started in 2001, when he took the film Mystic River to the Cannes Film Festival. There he fell in love with Bordeaux wines, and after returning home, he said, “If I ever had a vineyard, this is what I’d grow.” Three years later, the Coxes purchased the property that would become Mystic Hills, producing their first wine in 2014. Their careful, three-year aging process includes extended time in neutral oak to create soft, elegant tannins.

Mystic Hills, a true boutique estate, has just eight acres under vine, all farmed sustainably and organically — no chemicals, no sprays, just pure, natural winegrowing. The Cox family oversees winemaking along with acclaimed winemaker Keith Roberts. The vineyard, planted to include all five Bordeaux varietals, places a special focus on blending. Their Cabernet Sauvignon, for example, combines five distinct clones — a rare and meticulous approach that adds depth and complexity. They also produce single varietals like the 100% Petit Verdot (a personal favorite) and a beautifully structured Merlot called Joyride that lives up to its name. Even their h.e.a.r.t.s. Rosé, named for beloved family members, offers something special — a dry, European-style rosé crafted from Bordeaux reds, aged in stainless steel, and perfected for red wine lovers.

About 9 and a half miles to the southwest of Mystic Hills lies Locatelli Vineyards & Winery. Since its beginnings in 1996, Locatelli has remained small and proudly non-commercial. “We stay true to our roots — customer-focused with high-quality wines,” owner Raynette Gregory says. Their tasting room blends an industrial-modern vibe with a cozy, welcoming feel. They have a game room with billiards, darts, shuffleboard, and ping pong. On the large dog-friendly patio, guests might spot the winery’s resident Boston terrier, Fibi. They also host events, including popular Paint & Sip nights.

Locatelli specializes in smooth, full-bodied red wines — 95% of which are estate-grown — along with a small selection of white wines, all using sustainable practices and minimal intervention. The 2021 Estate Melodia, a favorite of mine, balances Zinfandel and Petite Sirah.

Overlooking San Miguel’s northern mountain range, the winery offers views of rolling hills, stunning sunsets, and breathtaking night skies. Raynette says, “If you look out my tasting room window to the southwest, you can see Mission San Miguel. It’s a treasure of our North County.”

Heading back toward the foothills, Tackitt Family Vineyards perfectly captures the heart and soul of San Miguel — laid-back, welcoming, with a side of delicious wine. Leon Tackitt, who spent 10 years in the Navy while discovering winemaking, founded this small, family-owned winery in 2008. Today, Tackitt Family Vineyards produces a range of exceptional wines, with a focus on Bordeaux varietals, Zinfandel, and Petite Sirah.

“Everybody loves our Zin,” Leon says. “It’s unique, farmed right here in San Miguel.” They also produce standout whites, including Albariño, Viognier, and a well-regarded Gewürztraminer, along with a few rosés. Tackitt also makes sparkling wines, crafting three different styles using the traditional méthode champenoise. Leon’s minimalist approach to winemaking allows the true character of the vineyard to shine through in every bottle. As he puts it, “I let the grapes do what they’re going to do.” With their relaxed and dog-friendly atmosphere, you will fall in love with this slice of San Miguel.

After enjoying the wine trail, you should not leave San Miguel without stopping by the Elkhorn Bar. Established in 1853, it’s known as the second oldest bar in California. It was reportedly a hangout for Jesse James and is even said to be haunted by a ghost or two. Visitors can enjoy a beer, a cocktail, or a game of pool. You can chat with the welcoming bartenders, mingle with locals, and catch up on the latest San Miguel gossip. Friday night offers a real treat — karaoke night at the Elkhorn!

Nosh and Nibble

My visit to San Miguel turned into an unintended, but exceptional, taco tour. I started my day at Dos Hermanos, which serves authentic Mexican food. While they offer amazing breakfast options like chilaquiles, chorizo and eggs, and machaca breakfast burritos, I went straight for the tacos. Al pastor and carnitas tacos are my love language, and Dos Hermanos did not disappoint, with fresh flavors and heaping portions of beans and rice on the side. They also have a lovely, dog-friendly patio where Frankie watched enviously as we dug into our meal.

Taco Mafia, a casual spot with both indoor and dog-friendly patio seating, has become known for super friendly service. Located close to the Mission, they win points for bringing chips and salsa to the table immediately. As for the food, the tacos are a must — my passion for al pastor and carnitas continues! For the hard-shell taco enthusiasts, they’ve got you covered with shredded beef and chicken options. One patron who considers himself a taco connoisseur put it simply: “Five stars!”

I ended my taco crawl at Susy’s Kitchen, a food truck located on Mission Street, that serves up some incredible Mexican eats. Open most evenings, they offer some of the most delicious street tacos that I have ever tasted. In addition to the classic favorites, they serve mouthwatering birria tacos and homemade salsas with just the right amount of heat.

Other dining options in San Miguel include Leo’s Café, which serves breakfast and lunch. Enjoy traditional breakfast favorites like eggs Benedict and pancakes, and for lunch, try one of their burgers or, one of my favorites, the French dip sandwich.

Just down the main drag on Mission Street, you will find Manny’s Pizza, where the menu goes beyond the slice to include burgers, sandwiches, assorted appetizers, and more. Their Miguelian Pizza stands out, topped with salami, pepperoni, mushrooms, olives, green bell peppers, Italian sausage, and linguica. Whatever your order, be sure to include their garlic cheese bread!

Slow down and stay

With many options in nearby Paso Robles, San Miguel offers a few unique lodging options. For a genuine countryside experience, Enney Ranch, a family-owned cattle and grain ranch, has cozy tent cabins — perfect for disconnecting and soaking in stunning sunsets and incredible stargazing.

If you fall in love with ranch life while in San Miguel, Work Family Ranch has you covered with two rustic cabins where you can experience everyday ranch living. For couples seeking a bit more privacy, their adorable “Tiny House” provides a cozy, intimate retreat right on the ranch.

And for wine lovers, Locatelli Vineyards & Winery offers a special perk for Wine Club Members — a Casita just steps from the tasting room. This peaceful spot lets you unwind with beautiful vineyard views and breathtaking sunsets from the patio.

My time in San Miguel left a lasting impression — shaped by the warmth of its people and the richness of its history. The tacos and wine also didn’t hurt! I have a strong feeling I will be making many return trips to this charming destination!