Oh Ojai

A deep dive into the Valley of the Moon

Photos and story by Nicole Leonetti

Ojai is close to everything, but somehow feels miles away from anything. This captivating valley lies 30 minutes from Ventura beaches and 90 minutes from Los Angeles. Tucked along the Los Padres National Forest foothills, this artists’ enclave has a rich history dating back thousands of years. The valley was originally inhabited by the Chumash people, who revered it as a sacred place. The name Ojai comes from the Chumash word Awha’y, meaning Moon.

For some, Ojai is known as one of the world’s spiritual vortexes, making it ideal for meditation, healing, and soul-searching. In addition to its purported spiritual benefits, Ojai is an idyllic escape for those looking to unwind and reconnect with nature. And bonus — Ojai happens to be one of the most dog-friendly places I have ever visited!

• • EATS • •

Starting off your day in Ojai, you can’t go wrong with Bonnie Lu’s. Family-owned, this classic American diner serves breakfast and lunch daily with favorites such as Kim’s Perfect Croissant with Ham & Swiss and a sweet Dijon sauce. I typically opt for the Chorizo & Eggs topped with jack & cheddar cheese, served with flour or corn tortillas.

For an easy breakfast bite, Jim & Rob’s Fresh Grill steps up with classic Mexican and American cuisine made with the freshest ingredients. For more than 25 years, they have been serving burritos, tacos, and burgers, along with soft-serve ice cream, churros, floats, and their famous sundaes. Their Chorizo Breakfast Burrito is my favorite way to start the day. While you’re there, check out the artwork on the walls to learn more about the history of Ojai. And bonus, it’s connected to Lisa’s Cantina, a local favorite and one of the only sports bars in town.

The Dutchess

is another craveable breakfast in Ojai. This bakery and café, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, has a popular weekend brunch. Their Spicy Chicken & Scallion Waffle is my top pick, and they concoct creative cocktails to enhance your brunch experience. And every day, their bakery offers drool-worthy breads, seasonal pastries, cookies, cakes, and pies.

When craving sushi, I always head straight to Sakura Ojai.

Their expansive Japanese fusion menu offers traditional favorites as well as unique rolls like the tempura Ojai Roll with tuna, salmon, white fish, and avocado. I am partial to their Awesome Roll with fresh salmon and crabmeat topped with mango and avocado.

Ojai Rôtie

is a foodie paradise that I can never seem to get enough of. The concept is a Lebanese/French picnic, with rotisserie chicken at the heart of the menu. You can order a whole chicken to enjoy with sides such as their caramelized cauliflower and pommes rotisserie — potatoes cooked in chicken drippings with a lemon-pepper aioli.

I love their Dippity Dips, a trio of dips: hummus, charred eggplant, and muhammara with grilled manouche. I typically hydrate with a glass or two of their popular Watermelon Water before diving into the wine selections at their Wine Box. The Wine Box includes several California wines sourced from within 70 miles of Ojai, as well as wines from France and Lebanon. Proprietor and chef, Lorenzo Nicola, curates the wine list and has even started making his own wine out of the famed Sta. Rita Hills.

Ojai does not disappoint when it comes to amazing Italian food, either! Boccali’s Pizza & Pasta has been serving Ojai since 1986, and its location in the East End of Ojai offers excellent views. You can customize your pizza here, selecting your sauce and then choosing from a slew of available toppings. Their garlic bread with melted mozzarella cheese is sinfully delicious. The lasagna is popular, as well, with both meat and vegetarian options. You will also find a great assortment of local beers and wines (including Boccali’s own label — more about that later!). When in season, their strawberry shortcake is top-notch. Same with their home-grown tomatoes! During October, the pumpkin patch behind the restaurant is a delight.

You can also count on Nocciola for a delicious Italian meal. They have a cozy outdoor patio and are open for lunch and dinner. Opt for a five-course tasting menu or order à la carte. My favorites include the Tortelli Pasta filled with Kabocha Squash, served over a Piave cheese fondue in a sage & brown butter sauce. If you have a hearty appetite, try their Agnello, a lamb shank with a pomegranate port sauce. Their extensive wine list  ensures you will find the perfect pairing for your meal.

For a casual spot with good food, look no further than Papa Lennon’s.

Local husband-and-wife team Kasey and Jeff Lennon opened this pizzeria in Ojai’s Meiners Oaks neighborhood in 2008. Come in for their scrumptious salads, grilled paninis, and pasta, in addition to their storied pizzas.

One of the most popular menu items is the Blackened Chicken Caesar Roll-up. Papa Lennon’s makes all their bread, pizza dough, and salad dressings in-house. Their desserts are made from scratch as well – good luck deciding between their crème brûlée and tiramisu!

Papa Lennon’s has a cozy dog-friendly patio and offers wine and beer, so you can spend a lovely Ojai evening there. Their beer comes from local breweries and is offered on tap. Kasey shared that Papa Lennon’s “came out of love for our family and the community … Ojai is a magical place in the world! It’s a sweet place where people really love one another.”

Down the street from Papa Lennon’s is the Ojai Noodle House.

I’ve been dreaming about this place since my recent visit. A new-ish Ojai restaurant, they serve Vietnamese choices like Bánh Mì, Bánh Xèo, and Pho. Not to be missed: Their take on a smashburger with sriracha aioli coleslaw and house made Vietnamese salsa seca. However, I am there for the noodles, and I can eat bowls and bowls of their Spicy Garlic Noodles served with your choice of protein. Their spacious outdoor patio will be an idyllic setting once springtime rolls around.

Back in downtown Ojai, Rory’s Place has a menu focused on fresh, seasonal, and local ingredients. Their menu ranges from Caviar & Chips with crème fraîche and chives to their Roasted Chicken with wood-fired escarole, blackberry, and capers. They have an impressive oyster bar and a clever cocktail menu. Their wine list has been thoughtfully curated to highlight natural wines.

For a mid-day snack, you will adore Sun Oven Bakery, a gluten-free, vegan, and nut-free bakery that serves delicious bread, bagels, muffins, doughnuts, cakes, and more. Since 2014, they’ve focused on creating wholesome, artisan baked goods that everyone can enjoy. Their Cinnamon Rolls have the perfect texture, and the Rice Crispy Bars are the perfect snack. Try them half-dipped in chocolate with sprinkles.

When only ice cream will do, head over to Ojai Ice Cream. Owner Kodi Berg grew up in Ojai and worked at the shop in high school. Ojai Ice Cream serves next-level delicious ice cream and still employs local high school students. Their ice cream is made onsite with flavors such as Valley Lavender, Ojai Orange, and Pistachio Chili Nut. They do seasonal drops of different flavors, and while you can order a cone or cup to enjoy while roaming around Ojai, they also sell pints along with bulk candy and coffee drinks such as their delicious affogato.

• • DRINKS • •

The Topa Topa Brewing Company taproom is located in the heart of downtown Ojai. Enjoy a cold beer at the bar, along with tasty bites from the Little Sama Ojai walk-up window located inside (I highly recommend the signature wings). Relax on the patio and take in breathtaking views of the majestic Chief Peak — while sipping a Chief Peak IPA!

Ojai Valley Brewery produces beers inspired by the valley’s terroir and botanicals. Owner Elizabeth Haffner’s lineup includes brews like Sage Beer, infused with local sagebrush, and Pixie Beer, a refreshing white ale. The popular Sugar Bush is similar to an IPA and is affectionately known as an “Ojai PA.” Non-alcoholic options include kombucha and a delicious grape juice on tap. The brewery is also home to Side Street Wine, founded by Elizabeth in collaboration with renowned winemaker Fabien Castel. Fabien’s philosophy of winemaking is akin to the free-flowing spirit of jazz, letting the process unfold naturally rather than overanalyzing it. They focus on organic, sustainable practices and produce wines using grapes sourced from local vineyards in Ojai and Ventura County. Their standout offerings include the Piquette, a low-alcohol (5%) fizzy wine made from the skins and stems of grapes, and the Anarchy, a sparkling pét-nat available on tap. Among their red wines is Liberté, a blend of Mourvèdre and Malbec that brings a perfect balance of fruit, acidity, and alcohol.

Enjoy a beer, wine, or both in the dog-friendly beer and wine garden. On weekends, live music and pop-up food vendors add to the lively atmosphere, making it the perfect spot to relax and experience the best of Ojai’s local craft culture. Fabien praises the area’s diverse climate, which allows for a variety of crops and makes Ojai ideal for many wine varietals.

Boccali Vineyards & Winery had their first vintage in 2007 and have been making great wine ever since. Winemakers Joe and DeWayne Boccali believe that the quality of the soil and the attention to detail that goes into maintaining their vineyards can be experienced in each glass of their hand-crafted wines. On weekends, they offer relaxing, outdoor tastings at Boccali’s Pizza & Pasta, where you can sit under oak trees while enjoying their wine. Their refreshing Valley Oak Viognier is a favorite, and their Topa Topa Syrah has notes of blackberries, plums, and spice.

Ojai Mountain Winery & Vineyard crafts exceptional wines at remarkable altitudes. Owners Olga and Mikhail Chernov acquired the property in 2015 and planted their first vines in 2018 at an impressive elevation of 2,800 feet. They follow biodynamic and sustainable farming practices and focus on Rhône varietals, which thrive in this unique microclimate reminiscent of France’s southern Rhône region. Their Estate White blends Grenache Blanc, Picpoul, and Roussanne, while the Estate Red fuses Bordeaux and Rhône varieties — Grenache, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, and Cabernet Franc. Winemaker Erich Bradley shares, “Our goal is to showcase the distinctiveness of our rugged terrain, where grapes flourish at nearly 3,000 feet. It’s an extraordinary site, as few vineyards anywhere in the world grow grapes at such high elevation.” Visits to Ojai Mountain Winery are by appointment only, accommodating groups of up to eight people.

Open daily, The Ojai Vineyard tasting room has oodles of wine to choose from. Famed owner-winemaker Adam Tolmach has been making wine in Ojai since the 1980s, and his grapes are sourced from iconic vineyards throughout California, such as Bien Nacido in Santa Barbara County.

While you can’t go wrong with their current release wines, I urge you to try some of their library wines, such as the 2013 La Cote Pinot Noir or their 2009 Santa Barbara Syrah. Each sip gives you a sense of place enhanced by Adam’s minimal intervention winemaking style.

Majestic Oak Vineyard, a family-owned winery with a tasting room in downtown Ojai, serves wine on their charming patio which sits below street level and is blanketed by vines and bistro lights. Their 2022 Chardonnay has notes of honeydew, citrus, and hazelnut, and their Syrah is bold and spicy with heaps of raspberry and black fruit.

They have a wine club, too, so you can enjoy their wines throughout the year.

Right about now, you might be in need of an energy boost. Thankfully, Ojai has no shortage of charming coffee spots to refuel. Ojai Coffee Roasters offers locally roasted coffee and a wide-ranging menu of coffee and tea options. Signature drinks like the Lavender Latte and Golden Turmeric Latte are crowd-pleasers, while their refreshing smoothies, including the Ojai Julius, add a fun twist. If you’re feeling peckish, they also serve a selection of delicious salads and sandwiches.

At Java & Joe, discover an impressive selection of whole bean coffee and loose-leaf teas. As a tea lover myself, I highly recommend their Blue Eyes blend — a mix of apple, strawberry, orange, cornflowers, and hibiscus that’s fantastic hot or iced. They also offer a variety of gifts, like mugs, brewers, and teapots.

Speaking of tea, Magic Hour is another happy place for me. Magic Hour’s organic ceremonial teas, crafted in Ojai by Zhena Muzyka, are designed to inspire mindfulness and unity. I could spend the afternoon there sipping tea and browsing their tea sets, books, gift sets, and what seems like endless tea options. You will learn about the wellness benefits of each tea. For example, The Oracle is a lemon lavender tea that improves digestive health and reduces stress.

After tea and tranquility, time for an adult beverage. The Hut, a classic, old-school bar in the Meiners Oaks neighborhood, is a fun place to stop for a drink. You’ll find live music, pool tables, a great beer selection, and a very casual, no-frills vibe. I love finding my favorite songs to play on their jukebox.

Ojai Beverage Company, open for lunch and dinner, serves creative cocktails such as the Western Punch with Bourbon, Orange Bitters, and Housemade Pomegranate Shrub. But what they’re really known for is their vast selection of beers (on tap and in bottles), wines, and spirits. The food is also excellent. I loved the Fried Pickles and Chicken Wings.

• • SHOP • •

Pixie’s General Store focuses on local Ojai products. The name, a play on pixie fairies and the famous Ojai Pixie Tangerine, embodies the shop with a mix of nostalgia and magic. They have a large kids and baby section as well as books, skincare, candles, bags, artwork, stickers, and more — much of which comes from small, woman-owned businesses. Of course, there is also a Pixie section with everything Pixie you can imagine, such as candles, hats, stickers, and more.

One of my favorite places to get lost in is Bart’s Books.

This iconic bookstore, open seven days a week, is touted as the world’s largest outdoor bookshop. Known for its massive inventory of used and new books, Bart’s has every genre covered from kids to adult, and offers something at every price point, from fifty-cent books to rare collector’s items.

Founded in 1964, Bart’s has an amazing atmosphere, unparalleled selection, and impressive service. I recently put Bart’s to the test with a hard-to-find book. Not only did they have it in stock, but the salesperson didn’t even have to look up where to find it. They just walked me directly to the section and shelf where it was located!

If you can’t find me perusing the aisles at Bart’s, then look in Nutmeg’s Ojai House. I love a metaphysical shop, and Nutmeg’s fits the bill. Owner Meg Goodwin opened the shop in 2000 after she was called to Ojai while working in the entertainment industry in L.A. She has curated a wide array of products, such as crystals, tarot cards, books, and candles, and enlists a variety of skilled practitioners who offer energy readings, astrology readings, reiki sessions, and intuitive massages. They also host events such as full moon meditations and goddess groups focused on female empowerment.

The Crystal Corner, another magical spot in Ojai, has a stunning selection of crystals along with jewelry, books, herbs, and assorted gifts for the sorcerer in your life. You can also get readings ranging from psychic and tarot readings to the fascinating Akashic records readings. Their readers and healers have vast experience and come from diverse backgrounds in the metaphysical space.

Jes MaHarry is a gem of a jewelry shop located in downtown Ojai, currently celebrating their 10-year anniversary. Owner Jes MaHarry designs and makes the jewelry using only ethically-sourced materials with 100% recycled metals to align with the mindful practices of the shop. The shop itself is a sight to behold – all the fixtures, tables, and hand-painted murals are custom-made by Jes and her family. Even the cash register is made from hand-formed copper! The jewelry itself, known for its organic sculptural techniques, is lovingly handcrafted. Jes shares, “We employ artisans in Ojai, and everything is made in Ojai.” You will find new designs offered frequently throughout the year, so you will discover something a little different on each visit.

At this point, my beloved dog, Frankie, is begging for some attention and treats! Hey Bingo specializes in holistic and all-natural pet supplies and has a carefully curated selection of products that are free from harmful chemicals and additives. Here you’ll find healthy dog and cat food from brands such as Bones & Co, Smallbatch, and Halshan. From organic food and treats to natural remedies and supplements, Hey Bingo has everything needed to keep your pets healthy and happy!

You will find that Ojai is a strong artist community, and you can get in on the action by stopping by OVA Arts,

a gallery for local Ojai artists where you can shop for a one-of-a-kind piece of art. Admire work from both highly regarded and emerging local talent and take home original fine art, custom jewelry, and contemporary crafts.

Dan Schultz Fine Art is a gallery where you can interact directly with the artist. The gallery, Dan’s working studio, allows visitors to see works in progress. His popular plein air Ojai landscapes are on display along with his award-winning paintings of figures outdoors and his portrait work.

Recently, they expanded with a section to showcase artwork by Dan’s wife, Sarah, and by their young son, so there are always fresh paintings on display and the artwork is available for sale.

If antiques & collectibles are your thing, then you will love Treasures of Ojai. They have everything you can imagine: furniture, statues, fountains, pottery, vinyl records, clothing, fine china, toys, jewelry, and more.

You can spend the afternoon on an actual treasure hunt here to discover the best antique finds.

Even while shopping, I still have food on the brain, so Ojai Roots is heaven for me. This is a farm shop that is the perfect place to stop for provisions to enjoy at home. They have kitchen décor, salts, marmalade, garden seeds, and so much more. Bonus, you can order a glass of wine and snacks to enjoy outside in their wine garden!

For a unique Ojai experience, I recommend the Heavenly Honey Tasting Room.

Owner Barbara Haskins says Heavenly Honey was created “with the utmost respect to the hard work the bees do.” They focus on making delectable honey with no artificial flavors added. You can learn about honey with a tasting flight, where each sample is more delicious than the last, from orange blossom (my favorite) to clover, pomegranate, and fiddleneck. Fiddleneck wildflowers grow in the foothills of Ojai and every taste is reminiscent of Ojai itself.

Their Buckwheat honey is sourced from the wild buckwheat in California’s Angeles National Forest and is considered the mānuka of California – the perfect remedy when feeling under the weather. Then there’s the Crystalized Sunflower Honey, a spreadable creamed honey that tastes just heavenly. Spread it on scones, pancakes, or even stir it into your favorite oatmeal for a luxurious upgrade to your meal. Heavenly Honey will start making mead this year, too!

A little further out of town, set amongst olive groves in the East End, is the Ojai Olive Oil Company. Here you can sample olive oils, learn more about making olive oil, and shop all of their products. They are pet-friendly and even have an enclosed pet area where your pups can enjoy themselves while you explore the olive oil options. They have amazing oils such as their Ojai Pixie-infused variety. They also make skin care products including olive oil lip balms and face creams.

Lastly, I am obsessed with Rains. Rains is an Ojai institution located in the downtown Arcade, where you can find literally anything – clothing, kitchen supplies, cookbooks, home décor, hardware, bath and body products … I could go on and on. Rains is typically my last stop in Ojai, so I can pick up anything still needed to commemorate my Ojai visit.

• • PLAY • •

Opportunities abound to keep the body and mind active while in Ojai. I personally like to start my day with a hike. Luckily, the Ojai Valley Land Conservancy has 27 miles of publicly accessible trails on 2,600 acres. OVLC’s Ventura River Preserve provides an invigorating hike popular with mountain bikers and bird watchers alike.

The Ojai Meadows Preserve is an easy, mostly flat hike, while the Valley View Preserve offers, unsurprisingly, magnificent views from the mountains above downtown.

Both provide ample opportunity for viewing wildlife and wildflower blooms. OVLC also offers volunteer opportunities and a range of walks you can join to learn about the ecology of Ojai Valley. The OVLC’s Native Plant Tour, coming up in April, will let you tour the native gardens of Ojai.

While you can spend days exploring the hiking trails, another way to take in the breathtaking views, mountain ranges, and wildlife is on horseback with Ojai Valley Trail Riding Company. A one-hour guided trail ride will take you through the picturesque trails of the Ventura River valley. The ride is suitable for all abilities, so a beginner like me can still enjoy the ride. They also offer private and group lessons.

For an immersive tour experience, I suggest Cloud Climbers Jeep Tours. They have options ranging from the Ojai Backyard Wine Tour to the Ojai Site & Bites Tour. These rides take place in custom open-air canopy-covered Jeeps and include guided narration on Ojai’s history. The All Around Ojai Tour starts at three hours and includes stops for an olive oil tasting, wine tasting, and a stop at a scenic overlook. There are several enhancements that can be added to tours, including lunch, craft beer tastings, and even a visit to a local artist’s studio.

Another place to enjoy local art is the Ojai Valley Museum, housed in a historic former church. There are a number of exhibits, including a diorama of the Ojai backcountry and a section that highlights local artists. Another Ojai-focused exhibit area changes quarterly throughout the year. Docent-led walking tours happen on Saturday mornings, and the museum’s Town Talks allow historians and authors to share insights into Ojai’s past, notable figures, and achievements. On the third Friday of every month, the museum stays open until 7 pm, and visitors can enjoy crafts and live music in addition to the exhibits.

Ojai is truly an artist community and while I deeply appreciate art, I lack artistic ability. However, Firestick Pottery changed that in one eye-opening afternoon.

Their two-hour workshops for visitors include a tour of the studio, pottery instruction, and the opportunity to create five pieces of pottery. This class works for any skill level! They’ll ship your finished pieces to you, or you can come back to pick them up. Firestick also offers private events for birthdays, team building, bachelorette parties, and more. Even if you’re hesitant to try your hand at pottery, Firestick is an awesome place to shop the work of more than 50 potters. Firestick also sells clay, pottery wheels, and more. I definitely got bitten by the pottery bug after my first workshop!

• • STAY • •

While Ojai makes for an ideal day trip, I suggest embracing the Ojai state of mind by staying a weekend (or longer). Ojai is brimming with unique options to call home during your next adventure.

I am currently obsessed with Blue Iguana Inn and Emerald Iguana Inn.

These iconic Ojai hotels are owned by Julie Whitman with her husband Marc, an award-winning architect and artist.

Together they built and designed the properties, filling them with curated paintings, sculptures, and metal works. Every room contains original artwork created by local artists as well as pieces from Julia’s travels. Originally a 1950s roadside motel, Blue Iguana Inn opened in 1997. The spacious property offers a variety of dog-friendly room types alongside charming lawns, gardens, and courtyards that make you feel as if you are staying in a historic Mexican pueblo. Located two miles out of town, the inn gives you the feeling of escape and allows for incredible stargazing opportunities. Their lovely pool and whirlpool spa along with their continental breakfast basket completes the perfect stay.

Located in downtown Ojai, the Emerald Iguana Inn opened in 2000 as a boutique property that feels remote but is walking distance to many of the shops and restaurants in town. Boasting an art nouveau design, the Emerald Iguana offers an array of cottages and suites to choose from.

They have an outdoor pool and jacuzzi to enjoy as well as continental breakfast basket and wine packages available to order in advance. These two unique boutique hotels offer standard rooms as well as one and two-bedroom suites and cottages with full kitchens and living rooms.

If a bed & breakfast is more your speed, you will love Lavender Inn located in the heart of Ojai. Owners Kathy and Mark Hartley bought the inn in 2003 and renamed it Lavender Inn. Dating back to 1874, the building was the first schoolhouse in Ojai and still includes some of the original brickwork in the kitchen. It has been wonderfully maintained throughout the years, and now you will find seven rooms in the main house (some pet-friendly!) and one cottage with a private backyard, kitchenette, and fireplace. Their continental breakfast includes homemade pastries, scones, and breakfast breads, and they pour complimentary wine in the late afternoon that you can sip while relaxing on the veranda. The property contains fountains, an English garden, and a small pond, which makes it an enchanting location to celebrate a special occasion. At night while wandering the property you will hear the symphony of frogs in the pond. There is also a small day spa on-site where you can enjoy massages, facials, and more.

Throughout my Central Coast travels, I have become a fan of Social Shelter Club hotel properties, and three of their properties are located here in Ojai. Kenny Osehan, Shelter Social Club CEO & founder, says, “Our properties are unique because we work with a lot of artist friends to create energy, warmth, creativity, and an intimate environment for our guests to feel at ease and comforted while also finding inspiration in the little details.” Their properties have pet-friendly rooms and complimentary bike rentals.

Their Spanish cottage-style Hummingbird Inn has a newly renovated lobby, cozy firepit area, and a relaxing pool with incredible views of the surrounding mountains.

The Capri, a 1960s mid-century modern hotel, offers a variety of room types and suites, and a welcoming pool and jacuzzi

that give oasis vibes with the surrounding trees and foliage. Finally, the Ojai Rancho Inn, a ‘50s ranch-style property, feels like summer camp for adults. They offer bikes, a pool, and stylish guest rooms along with Chief’s Peak, an intimate bar with a stellar selection of natural wines, beer, cocktails, and good music. Grab a drink at the bar, the poolside patio, or a bottle to enjoy back in your room.

Another hotel to highlight, Chantico Inn, is centrally located on Ojai Avenue, just west of the downtown area. Husband-and-wife team Dario & Tia Pini have owned the hotel for close to 20 years and offer guests a lovely assortment of pet-friendly rooms and suites, with jacuzzi tubs and private patios — perfect to enjoy the famous Ojai Pink Moment at sunset. The Chantico also has a heated pool and hot tub, a complimentary continental breakfast, and a wine & cheese reception on the weekends. This place provides value and convenience while still offering the feeling of escape from city life.

Kodi Berg of Ojai Ice Cream shared an old Ojai adage with me: “Nothing to do, and not enough time to do it.” After my deep dive into all things Ojai, I understand the sentiment completely. Ojai can feel like the perfect relaxing escape — yet you will never get bored with seemingly endless options for activities. I invite you to explore all that Ojai offers on your next visit!