Rolling Down the Row
Eats, sips, and adventures in Monterey’s Cannery Row
By Misty Hall All photos are courtesy of Cannery Row Company
I remember the first time I read Cannery Row by John Steinbeck. Judging by the cover, it seemed a little adult for a freshly-minted middle schooler, but I had already plowed through most of the other books in my grandparents’ library.
I quickly fell in love with Steinbeck’s characters, and how he painted such a rich world with his relatively simple words. Many of the more, uh, mature bits went over my young head, but there was always a lingering urge to see this place for myself.
Years later, when I finally did visit this stunning spot on Monterey Bay, I was shocked. No sardine smell, no junk piles or old shacks, and nothing that seemed like it would fit the definition of a flophouse (whatever that was). Instead, it was clean, lively, and, well, cute! Restaurants, shops, fun things to do, and so much to see — all while preserving the architecture and bustling energy Steinbeck so perfectly described.
These days, there’s even more to explore and experience in this historic neighborhood. To get your bearings, download the Cannery Row Walking Map app. It highlights more than a dozen spots to stop and take in the history of the community, from its earliest days with the Ohlone people to its Asian heritage, its role in the World Wars, and how it became the tourist spot you see today.
It’s also incredibly significant from an ecological standpoint. “The district sits directly on the edge of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, one of the largest protected marine areas in the United States — so visitors are walking just steps away from an ocean teeming with sea otters, harbor seals, and whales,” says Erik Uppman, vice president of marketing for Cannery Row Company.
Read on for some of our favorite must-stop locations!
• • Where to go, what to do
Just strolling around, window shopping and people watching can easily fill a day (or more) on Cannery Row.
You can’t visit Cannery Row without a visit to the Monterey Bay Aquarium. What makes this aquarium extra amazing is its location — it’s right on the water, meaning you’ll get to see animals both in the aquarium and in the wild. There are more than 80,000 plants and animals in their care, with an emphasis on regional wildlife. Visit the Kelp Forest, a 28-foot-tall exhibit that gives a diver’s view of these important underwater ecosystems. You’ll also find mysterious deep-ocean creatures, an aviary, a penguin splash zone, touch tanks, and my personal favorite, the otter exhibit. See these clever critters underwater on the first floor, or playing on the surface on the second floor. There’s far too much to list here, but it’s much more fun to discover it all on your own, anyway!
Now that you’ve gotten amped up about the ocean and its critters, why not get out on the water yourself? Adventures By the Sea provides, well, lots of adventures, both on and near the sea. Choose from public or private kayak or paddleboarding tours, or rent one and explore the coastline on your own. They also rent bikes, electric bikes, and surreys (four-wheel bikes for multiple riders). A guided e-bike tour of 17-Mile Drive is a great way to spend an afternoon, and hey, 17 miles isn’t so bad when you’ve got a motor to help you along! Knowledgeable tour guides, both on wheels and water, will share the history and ecology of the region.
Mad Dogs & Englishmen are also in the guided bike tour biz, but here, you can bring your fur baby along. As their name suggests, they love dogs — so you’ll find a selection of doggo baskets, sidecars, and cargo bikes so they can join in the adventure with you. And, bonus, if you fall in love with your rented bike, you can take it home! Located on the first floor of the Monterey Plaza Hotel, Mad Dogs has a deep knowledge of e-bikes, with a wide selection to shop as well as rent. Not sure where to go? Mad Dog offers several guided tours.
For a more casual taste of nature, head to McAbee Beach and stroll the historic shoreline that once housed a Chinese fishing village. On the far end of Cannery Row is San Carlos Beach, a beautiful strip great for strolling or picnics. It’s popular with scuba divers, as well as with sea lions who sometimes come ashore in such large numbers they temporarily close the beach to humans.
“For a slower pace, I suggest walking the Monterey Bay Coastal Recreation Trail, which runs right through Cannery Row,” says Uppman. “It’s stroller-friendly and perfect for spotting otters and seals along the bay. And of course, you can’t beat a stop at candy or ice cream shops for a treat before heading home.”
Prefer something a little more indoorsy? Escape Room 831 offers four Cannery Row area locations and several very different rooms, from the spooky (Pier of Fear) to the mysterious (The Gate), to the holiday-themed (A Christmas Story) and even a submarine (Submergency).
The Monterey Mirror Maze and Lazer Challenge offer more fun puzzles to solve. Just don’t call this a carnival mirror maze — it’s a work of art by acclaimed artist and master maze designer Adrian Fisher. With a trippy vibe, lights and tunes, it’s trickier than you think to find the exit! In the same building you’ll find the Lazer Challenge, a room with bright green “laser” beams that requires quick thinking and fast feet to solve. Can you make it through before time is up?
Keep the thrills rolling with Treasure Hunt: The Ride. This interactive experience is so much more than just a ride; it’s part game, part puzzle, part treasure hunt, too. Can you find Captain Bouchard’s treasure, and escape the Kraken?
Oscar’s Playground, meanwhile, is a gamer’s paradise. Along with a handful of Escape Room 831 rooms, this arcade has tons of games, from the old-school pinball machine to immersive gaming experiences. This is one place a gamer can get lost in for hours on end.
For more analog play, try the Tipsy Putt. They blend great food — and, obviously, great drinks — with mini golf. There’s plenty more to do here, too, like hoops, giant Jenga, cornhole, karaoke, and more. Kids are welcome until 7 pm, when it goes adults-only.
History buffs love Cannery Row, too! Many of the buildings that now house shops and restaurants were once sardine factories, and you can often still see the old canning machinery. Meanwhile, Doc Ricketts’ Pacific Biological Laboratories still stands on Wave Street, “preserved piece of marine science and local lore,” said Uppman. Ricketts was John Steinbeck’s real-life friend, and the inspiration behind the character Doc in Cannery Row. You’ll find lots more history along the length of Cannery Row, Uppman added. “Plaques and interpretive signs placed along the street tell the story of the canning industry, laborers, and Monterey Bay’s transformation from ‘Sardine Capital of the World’ to a leading visitor destination.”
Rather do some shopping? You’ll find souvenir shops like California Classics and Mackerel Jack’s Trading Co. for great local gear. Art galleries and a massive variety of other shops also abound — CulturArts (stunning Mexican artworks), Fine Art Turkish Grand Bazaar (Turkish goods), Coastal Candle Creations (inventive candles), Monterey Harley-Davidson (motorcycle gear), Monterey’s Tasty Olive Bar (olive oils and olive oil products), Om Rhythms (yoga inspired gear), Pearl Factory (open a pearl oyster), Steinbeck Jewelers (wearable art), Carmel Honey Company (tasty honeys and skincare products) among dozens of others.
• • Sip and sup
All this exploring and adventuring sure works up an appetite. There are plenty of eats and drinks in Cannery Row, from fun family places to romantic wine tasting rooms to rowdy pubs.
Of course, there’s the original Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. location, with its killer seafood, Forest Gump memorabilia, and fun vibe. Another piece of Monterey seafood history can be found at Louie Linguini’s, a longtime favorite with great service and incredible views of the bay. Another historic eatery is The Sardine Factory. Now more than a half a century old, it changed the face of the Cannery Row dining with its upscale menu and expansive wine list. Uppman calls it “the quintessential spot for a romantic dinner or celebration, with a nationally recognized wine list and a history of hosting everyone from celebrities to presidents.” The Fish Hopper is another old-time favorite featuring the bounty of the sea, right on the water. For house-made pasta and organic ingredients highlighting the region’s seafood and produce, try Lalla Grill. Or, dive into the Chinese food scene at Jack’s Bao, with steamed baos and other Asian treats. The Chart House is an elevated experience with unreal views and a menu to match (go for brunch!). “For a stylish, modern atmosphere, Schooners at the Monterey Plaza Hotel offers elevated coastal cuisine with stunning bay views,” says Uppman.
For a fun bar vibe, head to The Salty Seal. This bar and restaurant is a go-to whether you’re looking to watch the game with a local brew, dine al fresco, or dance the night away. Sly McFly’s Refueling Station also blends bar with great dining and fun — there’s live music and dancing every night!
Keep the kicked back theme going with a make-your-own-pizza experience at Cannery Pizza Co., or indulge in an authentic Italian deli sandwich at Coniglio Brothers.
Want to wine about it? A Taste of Monterey is a good place to start. With close to 100 local wines as well as beers and a lovely bistro and gift selection, it’s also a wealth of information on the wine scene across the region. Featuring grapes grown in the Santa Cruz Mountains, Bargetto Winery is the oldest continuously operating winery in that region (since 1933). Now run by the third generation of Bargetto family members, they are known for their chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot grigio, as well as Chaucer’s Mead. Blue Fox Cellars, meanwhile, offers wines sourced from Carmel Valley.
For more than just a wine tasting, try The Wine Experience. While they have tasting flights of wine (as well as beers and ports), they stand out with their blending experience. Learn how to blend wine like a pro in a hands-on class that allows you to bring home your creation.
For a sweet treat, try Nico’s Real Fruit Ice Cream, the Candy Factory, IT’SUGAR, Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate, Crepes on the Row Cafe — there’s no shortage of sugary goodness around these parts!
• • Spend the night
A handful of hotels are situated on Cannery Row itself, with many others just a block or two away.
Intercontinental The Clement Monterey is right on the waterfront and closest to the Monterey Bay Aquarium. It features gorgeous rooms, The C Restaurant and Bar, and a spa. Many rooms have ocean-view balconies or patios, as well as fireplaces. Plus, it’s dog-friendly! The Spindrift Inn is just a short distance down the Row. This historic landmark is nearly 100 years old, providing an appreciation for the past as well as plenty of present-day luxury. Ocean and Cannery Row views will make you want to linger in your room — especially when you order the in-room silver tray breakfast service! Monterey Plaza Hotel & Spa offers more stunning ocean views, both from their rooms as well as their restaurants, terrace sundeck, and even their renowned Vista Blue Spa. The Monterey Bay Inn sits adjacent to San Carlos Beach Park, and, like its neighbor hotels, has incredible views — none so stunning as from its rooftop hot tub!
A short walk away from Cannery Row itself, you’ll find other accommodations including the Wave Street Inn, Victorian Inn, and many others.
We’ve just dipped a toe in the deep sand that is Cannery Row, so get out and walk these storied paths yourself!