Cab Country
Exploring cabernet sauvignon in Paso Robles
By Don Sonderling
Paso Robles is A cabernet sauvignon lover’s paradise. The terroir is unique, and the people, wines, and attitude are creative and exciting. Here, you are sure to find a cabernet sauvignon to excite your palate.
Paso Robles Cab Country: A brief history
Gary Eberle, of Eberle Winery, came to California to make elegant, world-class cabernet sauvignon. Largely thanks to his mentor, Robert Mondavi, Gary chose the Central Coast town of Paso Robles back in the ‘70s to grow his grapes and make wine. Today, Gary is known as “The Godfather of Paso Robles” because he was the trendsetter in establishing what is now recognized as a world-class wine destination. He was among the trailblazers who saw it for its potential to produce some of the best cabernet sauvignon you will find anywhere in California.
Photo courtesy of L’Aventure
But before Gary and Mondavi was Stanley Hoffman. Stanley was a groundbreaking pioneer in winemaking on the Central Coast, being the first to plant Bordeaux varietals in the area following the repeal of Prohibition. Hoffman was also the first winemaker in the area to hire André Tchelistcheff as a consultant. Tchelistcheff is noted for his contributions toward defining the style of California’s best wines, especially cabernet sauvignon. As a result, cabernet sauvignon found a home in the Central Coast and Paso Robles.
“Location, location, location” is the old saying in real estate, and Paso Robles’s location for grape growing is amazing. Eleven sub- AVAs designate very different types of terroir, weather, and microclimates, with rolling hills, flats, valleys, gulleys, and altitude. It can be argued, though, that the secret ingredient is Paso Robles’s winemaking attitude. It’s the Wild West; it’s cowboys and outlaws (Jesse James and his gang used to hide out here at his uncle’s ranch); it’s pushing the limits and not being tied down to a specific set of guidelines.
The Paso Robles AVA is quite special and conducive to growing many different types of grapes. Geologist Ben Schupack describes the area as follows: “The diverse varietals of Paso Robles are not just a product of the deep diurnal temperature pendulum swings but also the deep geologic history of tectonic collisions. The ancient Miocene ocean floor and river deposits contribute to the prolific Paso Robles terroir.”
Paso Robles and Central Coast cabernet reflect the American spirit of experimentation. Come taste and experience Central Coast cabernets. They are different; they are Paso!
Let’s take a look at several early Cab (and Bordeaux style) producers who saw the future.
Early Paso Visionaries
Photo by Peter Schroeder Copia’s Anita and Varinder Sahi in the vineyard.
Eberle Winery Released its first cabernet sauvignon in 1979, and you may say this is where Paso Cab started. Forty-one years later, after Gary Eberle led the way for Paso Robles cabernet, he was honored by Wine Enthusiast Magazine as “An American Wine Legend.” With all the awards and recognition Eberle (the wines, the winery, and the man) has garnered over the years, the most important recognition is that once he built it, they came and kept coming, for cabernet sauvignon.
So, your Paso cabernet sauvignon experience is best begun at Eberle Winery. When you visit, you are likely to see Gary sitting in front of the winery, with one or two of his poodles, ready to greet you. For forty-five years, Gary Eberle — the man, the winery, and the wines — has made a strong Paso Robles statement. Taste the wines, learn the story, and discover for yourself why Gary’s the Godfather.
Justin Baldwin of Justin Winery fell in love with wine, specifically Bordeaux wines and cabernet sauvignon, while traveling the world as an investment and international banker.
In 1981, he purchased 160 acres of “dirt” in Paso Robles, with a focus on growing Bordeaux varietals. The initial JUSTIN release was in 1984, with the iconic Isosceles released in 1987. Justin Baldwin was a true champion of Bordeaux and cabernet sauvignon in these parts.
Jerry Lohr, of J. Lohr Winery, was another early pioneer to plant Bordeaux varietals and produce cabernet sauvignon on the Central Coast. Having begun his wine career in Monterey County, Lohr recognized the potential for Bordeaux varietals in the fledgling area of Paso and planted cabernet sauvignon vines in 1986. Still family-owned today, Jerry Lohr Winery helped to make Paso Robles internationally recognized for producing elegant cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux wines.
DAOU Vineyards and Winery may have been relatively “late” on the Paso Cab scene, arriving in 2007. However, they have made a significant contribution in helping promote Paso Robles as a world-renowned cabernet-producing area. Before Daniel Daou and his brother Georges purchased land in Paso, they carefully researched where the best terroir for their vines would be, and eventually settled on acreage in Paso’s Adelaida District AVA. Their vision was to prove that Paso Robles could, and would, produce cabernet sauvignon that was equal to any other California cabernet.
In addition to creating their own brand — which includes several selections of cabernet sauvignon — the Daou brothers were among the founders of the Paso Robles CAB Collective (PRCC), which spotlights the superior quality of Paso Robles AVA cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux (“C.A.B.”) wines. Other founding members of the PRCC were Adelaida Cellars, Chateau Margene, Eberle, Halter Ranch Vineyards, J. Lohr, Justin, and Vina Robles Vineyards and Winery. Since its founding in 2012, the PRCC has been a successful advocate for not only Paso Robles cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux varietals but also for highlighting Paso Robles Wine Country as a whole on the world wine stage.
Cab call
Although not necessarily exclusively cabernet producers, here are some suggestions for where to taste cabernet and Bordeaux-style wines. These are wines from many different AVAs in Paso Robles — unique, enticing, expressive, and reflective of Paso Robles’s diversity.
Chateau Margene
Michael Mooney, influenced by the cabs of Eberle and Justin, came to Paso in 1998 to produce cabernet. As an original founder of the PRCC, Michael is passionate about Paso cab producers’ ability to show what each AVA can produce. They are all different, with their own personalities. A visit to Chateau Margene showcases this small-lot producer of luxury wines and the particular terroir in the Creston AVA.
Paix Sur Terre
Paix Sur Terre’s vineyards. Photo courtesy Paix Sur Terre
Ryan Pease, winemaker/proprietor of Paix Sur Terre, never intended to make a cabernet. Instead, he specialized in Mediterranean white varietals and (his love) Mourvèdre, a Rhône varietal. However, when Ryan moved to his current location in Willow Creek, there was a small existing cabernet vineyard — and so, Ryan had to make a cabernet because the Willow Creek AVA is one of the prime locations for Bordeaux varietals. The result, as Ryan told me: “With the 2021 vintage, we received our first 95 points on a cabernet sauvignon from the distinguished Jeb Dunnuck, proving we have something very special on our hands.” It also proved the adage, “never say never.”
L’Aventure
Stephan Asseo began making wine in Bordeaux, France, and in 1982 built a reputation as an artisan winemaker of the highest caliber. In 1998, Stephan left Bordeaux, searching for the perfect place to grow Bordeaux varietals and to be able to make wine HIS way, without being fettered by rules and regulations. Paso Robles’s terroir and “cowboy” history fit Stephan perfectly. For almost 25 years, he has been crafting Bordeaux wines and 100% cabernet, consistently being awarded scores of up to 98-plus. L’Aventure are elegant wines, made by a Frenchman with a definite Paso Robles vibe.
LXV
Neeta Mittal and her husband, Kunal, hail from India, with the desire to produce small-lot world-class Bordeaux wine. Settling in Paso Robles, their inaugural vintage was in 2010. Along with consulting winemaker, Jeffrey Strekas, LXV produces elegant Bordeaux wines, including several cabernets. Their ultra-premium flagship wine (about 125 cases produced) is the Meso label. “This is our homage to Margaux,” says Neeta, of the Meso cabernet sauvignon. “It is grounded in the three cornerstones of site, élevage, and texture.”
Searching for individual expressive vineyards, winemaker Strekas attempts to stay “out of the way” in the winemaking process, letting the vineyards speak for themselves. LXV’s lineup represents a uniqueness in place and time, as dictated by both the site and the climate of the vintage.
Steve and Matt Glunz. Photo courtesy Glunz family
Glunz Family Winery
Steve and Matt Glunz produce several cabernets. These include fruit from their Estate Vineyard in the Genesco AVA. Glunz Family Winery also sources fruit from highly regarded vineyards in Paso’s Westside. Their cabernets truly show off the versatility of the Paso Robles terroir. Matt and Steve do everything, from planting to pruning to hand picking and making the wines. As Matt says, “Our goal is to make a premium wine and consistently over-deliver.”
And The Cab Goes On
Paso Robles is such a diverse area that there are high-quality producers throughout the region. The winemakers reflect the spirit of the early pioneers, ever striving to “let the soil speak.” In addition to the wineries named above, here’s a short list of more producers to get you started on exploring Paso’s cabernet sauvignons: Allegretto, Austin Hope, BENOM, Brecon, Calcareous, Cass, Clos Solène, Copia, Hunt, Robert Hall, Sixmilebridge, and so many more.
Dana Epperson, Decoy Wine’s winemaker and VP of winemaking, made perhaps one of the greatest compliments to Paso Robles’s distinctive AVA. Upon the recent release of her 2022 Decoy Limited Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon, she said, “There is a reason Paso Robles has the most cabernet sauvignon acreage of any California appellation outside of Napa Valley. The local winemaking community has done an amazing job of building global awareness for the region. With our new Decoy Limited offering, we are proud to add our voice to the celebration of Paso Robles and its wines.”
Visit and discover the cabernet and Bordeaux varietal wines of Paso Robles. This is Cab Country. Cheers!
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Don Sonderling is a freelance writer covering California’s unique lifestyle of wine, food, and adventure from Ventura up through Napa Valley and beyond. He may be reached at donsonderling@gmail.com.